Gozo Area Information
Compact, easily accessible and a stranger to mass tourism, tranquil Gozo more than qualifies for inclusion on the (ever-shortening!) list of 'undiscovered' Mediterranean gems.
Boasting a wealth of land and maritime history, a rich culture, superb scenery, a varied and imaginative choice of pastimes as well as several first class restaurants, this unique hideaway truly has something for everybody... and one of Europe's most benign climates in which to enjoy it.
Of the three main Maltese Islands, it is usually Malta itself that garners the lion's share of attention however this is only to Gozo's benefit. In many ways a smaller, greener, more laid-back version of its illustrious neighbour, Gozo can also lay claim to an abundance of gentle charm and an impressively relaxed atmosphere - two of the principal qualities which for centuries have drawn visitors inexorably to this celebrated archipelago.
Those taking the short, scenic hop across the channel from Malta will discover an island utterly at ease with its lower profile; a friendly and welcoming place where time may not exactly stand still but certainly ambles around at its leisure.
Being just 62 miles south of Sicily and180 miles north of Africa, Gozo is virtually in the centre of the Mediterranean. With such a location it is perhaps no surprise that the island is considered a melting pot of the many individual cultures and civilisations that have conquered, colonised, visited or generally lent their influence over the centuries.
In testament to this, UNESCO have granted three sites on the Maltese islands World Heritage status including the fascinating ggantija Temples on Gozo which have stood for more than 5,500 years (over 1,000 years longer then the pyramids) and are widely considered the oldest freestanding buildings in the world.
Indeed, the history of the region is amongst the Mediterranean's most colourful. Although little is known of the earliest civilisations, records show the Phoenecians arrived around 800BC followed, in turn, by the Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs and Normans.
After a brief period of French rule Spain took control in 1282 until 1530 when Charles V gave the islands to the Knights of St John in exchange for an annual gift of one Maltese falcon (the source of inspiration for Dashiell Hammet's famous story). French rule began again in 1798 when Napoleon appropriated everything of value in a period of just six days before, finally, the British took over for 150 years from 1814 until independence in 1964.
The British legacy is obvious. Along with Maltese, the official language is English, cars are driven on the left hand side, red telephone boxes still dot the townscapes and the tradition of marching brass bands has been enthusiastically adopted!
While the locals and many maps still refer to the island's intriguing capital as Rabat, it was actually renamed Victoria in 1897 in honour of the British Queen's Diamond Jubilee.
All roads lead to Victoria! It is virtually guaranteed that to get to wherever you are going on Gozo you will have to pass through the capital. Spiritual heart of the island, centre of business and focal point of countless local events and celebrations it is also home to one of the Mediterranean's most imposing and best-preserved citadels.
Built by the Knights to forestall Turkish invasion and visible from practically all four corners of the island, this immensely impressive bastion dominates the ridge overlooking the town and really should be atop everyone's list of sights that must be seen... if only for the breathtaking 360° views which can be enjoyed from its crenellated walls and soaring parapets.
According to legend it was St Paul's shipwreck on Malta in AD60 that initiated the region's long history of religious devotion and there are now well over 40 churches on Gozo.
Off Independence Square in Victoria, the opulent interior of the St George basilica is just one fine example of the integral part religion plays on an island where even the most cursory glance across the countryside reveals a procession of large baroque church domes silhouetted against the horizon (the parish church of Xewkija has the third largest dome in Europe, with a lift that whisks visitors up to the top from where there are marvellous views).
Ironically for a building that occupies one of the prime locations on the island, St Mary's Cathedral, directly alongside the citadel gates took 14 years to build but ran out of money before its own dome could be finished. The problem was, however, cunningly resolved by painting a spectacular trompe l'oeil false dome onto the church ceiling! Be sure to see it.
Gozo also has the distinction of being one of the few places visited twice by Pope John Paul II during his pontificate. Serving as the focal point for his 1990 visit, the basilica of Ta' Pinu, known as 'the church of miracles', is a renowned centre of pilgrimage and one of the island's most celebrated landmarks.
Opposite the church, the pathway leading up the Ghammar Hill is lined by impressive, life-sized marble statues depicting the stations of the Cross and the sea view from the summit is marvellous, particularly at sunset.
Nearby Gharb, is considered one of the most traditional (and laid-back) towns in the Maltese Islands with its rows of restored 18th Century townhouses lining the streets.
There is an interesting Folklore Museum, a very popular local restaurant and also the Ta' Dbieghi Crafts Centre which is a good place to see demonstrations of glass making or pottery and maybe find a souvenir or two. Ghasri, the next village along, is also full of old-world charm and feels, remarkably, even more sleepy than Gharb.
Heading northwards, Marsalforn may be the island's largest seaside resort yet, in common with everywhere else, even this former fishing village remains pleasantly low key and rarely becomes busy.
Evenings are a good time to enjoy a meal in one of the excellent waterfront restaurants or perhaps take a stroll along the promenade looking out for the brightly coloured 'luzzus' (fishing boats) each with its own unique painted eye decorating the prow.
Just west of here, at Xwejni, hundreds of indentations in the soft limestone form a series of salt pans that stretch for 2km along the scenic coastline. Dating from Roman times, the pans fill with sea water from the winter waves which then evaporates in summer leaving behind crystallised salt.
The reflection of the sky in the pan water often gives the impression you are looking at a long sea of mirrors and in August you can still witness the salt being collected in time-honoured fashion using spades and wooden buckets!
Dwejra Bay is the most westerly point on Gozo, a very scenic spot and a popular dive site. Here you will find two exceptional geological marvels, the Azure Window and the Inland Sea as well as the curious Fungus Rock.
An otherwise nondescript lump of stone jutting up amongst the waves the Rock is well known in botanical circles for a rare plant which grows there in abundance and which has been highly prized over the centuries as a 'cure' for several ailments.
Perched on the promontory opposite the Rock, Qawra Tower was built in the sixteenth century by the Knights of St John both to guard the precious 'fungus' and to house a winch so their official plant-gatherer could be hauled across to collect batches of this coveted foliage.
On the south coast the Ta' Cenc cliffs are home to one of the largest Mediterranean colonies of Cory's shearwaters and are a favoured spot for sightings of the national bird, the blue rock thrush, easily identified by its melodious song and idiosyncratic habit of flicking its tail feathers up and down.
Almost without exception all Gozitan towns and villages are planned around a central square from where the streets radiate outwards in concentric circles. Hilltop Zebbug is one such example.
Flanked by a parish church artistically decorated with local onyx, the square is the hub of village life and the villagers are famous for their lace making and weaving skills (introduced a century ago as a means of providing work for unemployed women, lace making still remains one of Gozo's most successful crafts).
Architecture/house design on the island is also distinctive. Many private houses are built in terrace-style rows of anything between two to ten properties usually with a courtyard enclosing their garden or pool area.
This style of construction means it is quite usual on Gozo for one house to be able to see into the grounds of another, particularly from the upper floors, although degrees of privacy naturally vary according to wall heights, window aspects and maturity of any garden foliage.
Festivals
As is the case in so many Mediterranean destinations, festivals play an important part in everyday life. Each village joyfully celebrates the feast of its patron saint with the parish church (and usually several houses) festooned by lights while the residents process, dance, feast and let off fireworks in the streets.
Always celebrated in style and with great gusto be sure to join in should your visit coincide with one of these colourful events (which, chances are, it probably will!). Other notable diary dates include Good Friday, Easter Sunday and the October/November 'Mediterranea' festival of the arts.
A holiday on Gozo can be as sedate or active as you wish with rock climbing, canoeing, cycling and hiking just a few of the popular pastimes.
The island's temperate climate and excellent underwater visibility make the seas around Gozo a much sought after destination by scuba divers and the rugged coastline is dotted with small coves and bays many (such as Qbajjar, Xwejni and Dahlet Qorrot) accessed only by unmade paths or by boat.
Ramla Bay is the finest sandy beach on Gozo and one of the best in the Maltese Islands. This gorgeous strip of dune-backed ochre sand, set at the mouth of a large valley with family-friendly bathing and good facilities is easily accessible.
Overlooking the beach, Calypso's Cave is claimed to be the spot where lovesick nymph, Calypso, kept Odysseus captive in Homer's Odyssey.
Nearby San Blas Bay is almost a miniature version of Ramla kept wonderfully peaceful by limited access while the gently sloping rocks at Ras Il-Bajda, near Xlendi Bay on the south coast, are also a scenic and popular swimming spot.
Climate
Gozo's temperate climate is typically Mediterranean with hot, sunny summers and comfortably warm weather in both spring and autumn.The latitude of the Maltese archipelago is more southerly than that of northern Tunisia and the sun can be strong over the main part of the day.
A warm wind, the scirocco, sometimes blows in from North Africa during September and October. Sea temperatures are very comfortable, averaging nearly 23°C during the summer.
Access to Gozo is via Malta, with flights from a number of UK airports. Malta is reached in around 3 hours by air from the UK and local time is one hour ahead of GMT.
The national carrier, Air Malta, operates flights from Gatwick, Heathrow, Birmingham and Manchester whilst British Airways also flies from Gatwick. Ryanair has services from Luton, Bristol, Edinburgh and Dublin and easyJet from Gatwick and Manchester.
On arrival you can pick up your hire car at Malta airport and make your own way to your house or Vintage Travel can offer a complete return transfer service from the airport directly to your house by private car or minibus (including the ferry ticket). Your hire car would be delivered to your house on arrival and can be left there on departure.
From Luqa (Malta Airport) to the port of Cirkewwa takes about 35 minutes by road and the car ferry crossing takes 25 minutes to Mgarr on Gozo.
